I like visiting churches, and particularly the old ones. Not only are they an ideal place to rest for a few minutes, but they charge my spiritual batteries, allow me to cool down from the heat of the sun and teach me quite a lot about the people that live and worship within the local community. Until recently, I have rarely considered the physical positioning of church buildings, and always assumed that much was subject to the availability of suitable land, as well as the positioning of other buildings and natural features. In other words, I have assumed that most churches were built more by accident rather than focussed design. A recent study in the Canary Islands has made me realise that there is much more to the subject and, once again, reminded me that the trade winds had, and continue to have, an important part to play in the history and development of these islands.

The trade winds have both a positive and negative impact upon everything in the Canary Islands. The shape of the volcanoes, climate, the guiding of sailing boats and the natural cycles that enrich the Atlantic Ocean are all affected by the trade winds, which many refer to as “the Motor of the Atlantic Ocean”. Mariners have used and relied upon them for centuries for reliable and swift sailing. Surprisingly, the trade winds may also have determined how churches were originally built in the Canary Islands.

Three researchers from the Institute of Astronomy and Space Physics of Buenos Aires, the Institute of Astrophysics of the Canary Islands and the Institute of Heritage Sciences of Santiago de Compostela have carried out a very interesting study of 32 churches across the Canary Islands and have recently reported their findings.

Most Christian churches in Europe were for centuries built with an orientation that would allow the priest to look to the east when officiating at the Mass. This instruction came from the first Council of Nicea in 325 AD. In most churches, the altar is aligned to the point where the sun rises, which followed the advice given by Saint Athanasius of Alexandria in the Fourth Century, which was designed to allow worshippers to hear the Mass whilst facing the sun.

Later, Church law stated that church buildings must observe the principles and norms of the Bible and sacred art, so that many churches have their nave facing east or towards the point where the sun rose on the day of the year when its foundations were laid. This practice was followed in almost all Christian churches in the world, with the exception of those in North Africa, where churches tend to face west.

Current researchers wanted to discover if this North African custom could be seen in the first Christian churches of the Canary Islands, because of the influence of the aborigines of the islands, who descended from the Berber villages of North Africa. They examined the orientation of churches in Lanzarote, the island where the European presence is older and goes back almost a century before the conquest of Gran Canaria or Tenerife was completed.

The research findings were surprising, since the orientation of the oldest churches of Lanzarote does not show a clear influence of the aboriginal culture that can be attributed to ancient cults of these people, or their knowledge of astronomy. This was particularly interesting, because several pre-Hispanic sites across the Canary Islands mark the sunrise in the solstices and equinoxes, which allowed aboriginal societies to have a calendar for rituals, sowing and harvesting.

Of the thirty-two churches analysed, all were built between the Sixteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. Seventeen are positioned to face east at sunrise, one is almost exactly aligned with the equinoxes (Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes in Mala) and two more were built in reverse, looking west. However, twelve were aligned to face in a north-north easterly direction.

These researchers conclude that this peculiarity of Lanzarote churches is unique in all of Europe. They suggest that it is a compromise response to a cultural combination of beliefs of the aborigines and the faith of their conquerors. Some churches in the Canary Islands show a marked difference to the orientation of nearly all Christian churches across the world and could have been influenced by the direction of trade winds that were so important to the aboriginal people living in these islands. So, next time that you visit a church in the Canary Islands, do take a compass with you.

© Barrie Mahoney 2025

To find out more about Barrie, his blogs, podcasts and books, go to: http://barriemahoney.com/

With the exception of articles about receiving British television in Spain, the most popular article on my ‘Living in Spain and the Canary Islands’ website continues to be ‘Death in Spain’, which is why I repeat the publication of this article from time to time. Death is a subject that no one really wants to talk about, but most wise expats know that they should give it some thought, if only to spare their loved ones’ unnecessary problems during a distressing time.

I came face to face with this issue several years ago following the death of a good friend living in Spain. Peter had no living relatives either in Spain or in the UK, and it was left to local friends to ensure that his wishes were carried out. Peter had willed his body for medical research, but because he died of cancer, the body was rejected by the research institute. Peter had expressed no other wishes, and his friends therefore decided that cremation would be the next best alternative.

Meanwhile, Peter’s body was resting in a makeshift mortuary in a private hospital, which sadly also doubled up as a laundry and storage room, with open doors to the car park outside the building. It was imperative that the body be moved as a matter of urgency, because of the heat of the summer. It is not due to lack of sensitivity, but for good reason, that most bodies are either cremated or buried within two or three days of death in most parts of Spain and the Canary Islands.

Calls to the funeral directors revealed that they would require a deposit of around 4000 euros before they would even remove the body from the hospital. By that time, Peter’s bank accounts had already been frozen, and it was unlikely that there were sufficient funds available in the account anyway. It was up to Peter’s friends to collect the funds necessary to pay the undertakers before the body could be moved. Eventually, the deposit was paid, and the funeral company removed the body from the hospital; the funeral and cremation could then go ahead.

As a friend witnessing these events during a distressing period, it made me realise that everyone, and certainly all expats, should make provision for their passing to avoid unnecessary distress and burdens placed upon those that are left. Although it was always something that I had intended to do, this experience made me visit a Spanish insurance company that had been highly recommended a few days after the funeral. For a very modest monthly premium, both my partner and myself are now fully covered - nothing too fancy, just a dignified, and hopefully efficient, end of a story.

Although I am not going to make any recommendations as to the best companies to insure with, I would urge all expats to take out some kind of cover, unless wealthy enough to have a substantial reserve of cash that is readily available to the next of kin. Readily available is the key phrase here, since bank accounts in Spain are rapidly frozen upon death, which can make access to funds difficult at a time when it is most needed.

There are currently many insurance companies advertising funeral plans to expats, with some requiring substantial payments up front. Realising that there is a ready market in expat death, headlines such as “Funeral Costs Rising at a Shocking Rate”, and depressing graphs showing “The Cost of Dying” are currently appearing in many online publications. Of course, these advertisements are meant to frighten as well as to inform, but they do have a useful function in alerting expats to potential problems that they may face.

Experience tells me that whilst some may prefer to pay the full cost of their funeral up front, it is not necessary, and good, basic cover is available for a reasonable monthly or annual premium. For me, a Spanish insurance company with a good track record, together with recommendations from friends was the best choice. As with most of the larger purchases in life, carefully shop around for the best prices and ask questions before you commit yourself.

© Barrie Mahoney 2025

To find out more about Barrie, his blogs, podcasts and books, go to: http://barriemahoney.com/

Leaving messages in public places seems a strange thing to do, but I guess it has been going on for generations. You have only to look closely at ancient trees, park benches and public monuments to see those immortal words “John loves Jane”, or similar words, announcing to the world undying affection of a first love, latest love or indeed any other pertinent message. I guess it is rather like the Stone Age equivalent of Facebook and Twitter, when personal (and often irrelevant) messages are declared to the world, when maybe they would be better kept to one’s self.

Speaking of messages, the good people on the island of Fuerteventura are getting a little annoyed with tourists who are following the latest craze of leaving messages with stones on beaches, and building small towers with stones. The current problem is that tourists are no longer content to wander along the beautiful white, sandy beaches of Fuerteventura, but wish to leave their mark to those who follow. I guess you could call it the human equivalent of a dog ‘peeing on a lamppost’. These tourists who visit Fuerteventura carry out message or imaginative construction activities using stones to ensure that their presence does not go unnoticed, but which local experts describe as causing a destructive impact upon the ecosystem of these beautiful beaches.

One such area, Playa de Esquinzo in Fuerteventura, is just one example that was recently highlighted where the Tourist Board wants to raise awareness that their messaging and construction activities on beaches and coastal areas are destroying and damaging the landscape. Tourists on other Canary Islands are also adopting these stone message activities without considering how their actions affect delicately balanced ecosystems.

It seems that this modern-day equivalent of ‘peeing on a lamppost’ is not a new phenomenon. A Jewish friend recently told me that within the Jewish faith, it is customary to leave a small stone on a grave. A stone is placed by a visitor on the grave, but using only the left hand (don’t ask me why). The act of placing a stone on the grave serves as a sign to others that someone has visited the grave, and enables visitors to commemorate the burial and life of the deceased. In this way, stones are used as an act of remembrance and a lasting reminder of the deceased’s life. Other historical accounts suggest that the tradition goes back to Biblical times when graves were simply marked with small stone mounds, because gravestones had not been invented. The mounds of stones helped to mark the location of the grave so that it could be found again in the future.

In addition to finding stone messages or small towers, beach walkers in the UK and US may come across a smooth pebble painted with a colourful picture of an animal or cartoon character, or simply a meaningful message. Pebble painting is yet another craze that appears to have originated in the United States and is beginning to find its way into Europe. Amateur artists take part in painting pebbles and leaving them in public places for others to find. Brightly painted pebbles with messages and colourful patterns may be found nestling in sand dunes, on top of walls and gate posts. Some parents regard it as a welcome pastime for their children, and encourage them to take a break from their smartphones and tablets, and collect stones and decorate them. Stone painting has become quite popular in some of the UK’s coastal resorts, and especially on beaches with plenty of smooth stones.

Sadly, council chiefs in the UK are not too happy with this idea, and often with good reason, as they say they pose a danger to elderly people who risk tripping over them and they are used by vandals to throw at ducks and scrawl the paint onto local war memorials. Parents are urged to be responsible and to show their children common sense when hiding these rocks, so that they don't become problems for other people and the environment.

Meanwhile, back in the Canary Islands, tourism chiefs are hoping that tourists will continue to use and enjoy its beautiful beaches, but not to feel the urge to ‘dog mark’ by building stone towers or painting smooth stones for others to find. Indeed, this whole issue has left tourism chiefs in Fuerteventura with stony faces, so be warned.

© Barrie Mahoney 2025

To find out more about Barrie, his blogs, podcasts and books, go to: http://barriemahoney.com/

I must first confess to having a very simplistic knowledge of wine. I know what I like and what I don’t like. I will not spend a lot of time and money on fancy labels, nor will I indulge in that ridiculous time-wasting drama of ‘someone who knows wine’ - tasting it before it is poured knowingly by the waiter. If the wine is ‘off’, I would send it back. As an alternative, just sniff the cork; it really is that simple, and saves an awful lot of time.

What colour of wine do you prefer? I like white wine during a sunny lunchtime snack and maybe a chilled red during a warm evening. I tend to opt for a Canarian or Spanish wine, mainly out of loyalty to my adopted country, but I guess that my favourites are the island wines, and particularly those from Lanzarote. Now what about a blue wine?

I had the pleasure of trying a blue wine recently. I was initially a little doubtful, but since blue is my favourite colour and it was glowing temptingly in the sunshine, I didn’t hesitate. After the first tentative sip, I knew that I was hooked. Not only did the deep, rich blue colour look amazing, but it suited my palette perfectly. Yes, it was on the sweet side, but it was the kind of sweetness that fits so well on a hot sunny day by the swimming pool or in a bar overlooking the sea.

To many ‘wine connoisseurs’, the very idea of a blue wine is truly a horrific concept, yet it is already made in several Spanish wineries. I am told that blue wine is a mix of mainly white and a little red wine, as well as freshly crushed grape juice. The blue colour is based upon using two pigments, anthocyanin, which is found in the skin of red grapes, and indigo carmine. It is best described as a blend of technology and the best that nature can provide.

I am also told that blue wine has received mixed reviews, including from the Paris ‘Ritz’, who described it as “surprising”. Whether that is ‘surprisingly good’ or ‘surprisingly bad’, I have yet to find out, whilst the UK’s Telegraph referred to it as “a gimmick”, which probably means it is very nice, but they don’t want anyone else to know about it.

Sadly, in Europe the new blue wine has to be labelled as an “alcoholic drink”, since the authorities have decreed that it cannot be a wine, because it is blue, which leaves me very confused about the status of rosé wine.

Enterprising Spanish wineries are now producing a wide range of alternatives to the usual red and white wines. It is now possible to buy a blue, sparkling cava, a red wine that is infused with Earl Grey tea, as well as a white wine that includes a hint of Sencha tea from Japan, which sound challenging. There is also another newcomer to the range that is red and spicy, called ‘Bastarde’. I am not at all sure about that one, so think I will maintain my loyalty to wines from Lanzarote and the other islands, but I do recommend that you try the blue wine if you get the opportunity.

© Barrie Mahoney 2025

To find out more about Barrie, his blogs, podcasts and books, go to: http://barriemahoney.com/

An interesting photographic exhibition in Lanzarote caught my eye this week. The exhibition, which was presented by local students, brought together 300 photographs from the family albums of their grandparents and great grandparents, which reflected life on the island in the last century.

In one photograph, the great grandparents of one student are shown threshing lentils, which were grown on the island. Lentils are usually regarded as one of the world’s healthiest foods and it was interesting to see that they were grown and harvested in Lanzarote, as well as the other Canary Islands.

The island of Lanzarote is just sixty miles off the coast of the Sahara. It is a dry and volcanic island, with six to eight inches of rain in a good year and much less during a drought; both this and its volcanic geology became this island’s destiny. Serious problems for islanders were caused by volcanic disasters. As with all the Canary Islands, such conditions determined the crops that could be grown to ensure survival in sometimes wretched economic and climatic conditions. One of the answers was to be lentils.

Long before the Spanish conquest of the Canary Islands, people used the rich, fertile earth to grow a range of subsistence crops, which included lentils. The lentil is one of the oldest and hardiest foods in the world, and there is no legume more resistant to arid land than the lentil. It needs very little water to grow and can survive the hottest or coldest of climates.

Lentils originated in central Asia and have been eaten since prehistoric times and are one of the first foods known to be cultivated, since seeds dating back 8000 years have been found in archaeological sites in the Middle East. Archaeologists even discovered traces of lentils buried with the dead in Egyptian pyramids. The humble lentil had reached mythical status and was praised for its ability to enlighten the mind, even in the afterlife. In Catholic countries, such as Spain and the Canary Islands, lentils have long been used as a staple food during Lent.

Lentil stew is a popular dish in the Canary Islands, and often served with potatoes, chorizo and vegetables. I am also told that the addition of garlic croutons and red Canary wine together with crusty bread makes a comforting and wholesome dish, and best found in many of the small, traditional family-run restaurants on the islands. Lentils do not need to be soaked before cooking, have multiple uses in the kitchen, and their flavour enhances any vegetable or meat ingredient. It is no wonder that they have been a treasured foodstuff since early times.

As a vegetarian for many years, I have long been aware of the high nutritional properties of the humble lentil. They are an excellent source of cholesterol-lowering fibre, as well as having an ability to manage blood sugar levels following a meal. Lentils contain seven of the most important minerals, including B-vitamins and protein, and with virtually no fat. Indeed, just a cupful of cooked lentils will set you back around 200 calories, so they are great for anyone on a diet. The fibre content helps to overcome digestive disorders, such as irritable bowel syndrome and prevents constipation. There are also huge benefits to the heart; according to food intake studies, lentils were associated with an 82 per cent reduction in risk from heart attacks due to their fibre, as well as from the significant amounts of folate and magnesium. Lentils are rich in iron and, unlike red meat, are not rich in calories or fat, which makes them ideal for those who require increased levels of iron, including growing children and adolescents.

I am very fond of pasta dishes, but try to avoid eating them too often, because they can be very fattening. I have recently discovered pasta made entirely from lentils, which can now be easily purchased from some of the major supermarkets. At last, I can enjoy pasta without worrying about the calories.

This one old photograph of a couple threshing lentils on this beautiful island reminded me of the immense value of the humble lentil, which can be rightly called “an ancient crop for modern times”. If you haven’t yet eaten a lentil dish, or used them within a meal, I recommend that you do. As for me, I’m off to enjoy a lentil bake and a glass of red Lanzarote wine for lunch.

© Barrie Mahoney 2025

To find out more about Barrie, his blogs, podcasts and books, go to: http://barriemahoney.com/